Hamsters are actually excellent house animals for people of every age group due to their cleanliness and cuteness, plus hamsters are fairly low-cost and simple to maintain. A hamster typically makes the best pet for kids helping train responsibility. The typical lifespan of a hamster is around 1-3 years, and on that basis a few people say that looking after a hamster is a great way for a kid to eventually learn to cope with loss. There are several different types of hamsters, though the one most traditionally reserved as a pet is the lovable Syrian hamster breed.Syrian hamsters are probably the biggest type of hamster, and they are observed in several pretty diverse shades, in longhaired or shorthaired selection. The longhaired Syrian hamster is generally labelled a toy bear hamster. A full-grown Syrian hamster usually grows up to about four to 6 inches long. A significant point to be aware of concerning Syrian hamsters is that you ought to not maintain more than one per cage, if 2 Syrian hamsters are made to share the same place, they will probably assault and could seriously injured one another. These most well liked hamsters are Dwarf hamsters, which just grow to 3 to 4 inches in length, meaning that name Dwarf hamsters. These lovable little fellows could be placed together with other Dwarf hamsters and they could usually get along definitely alright. Before you pick out to buy a hamster as a pet, you may decide to purchase all the supplies you need, such as hamster cage, water bottle, food, bedding and toys. You can acquire and buy some of the goods you need to prepare for a new pet hamster by searching on the internet; I suppose that is just how one can find the best discounts on pet supplies. Get your hamster’s home designed and prepared previously, so that the hamster can relax and quickly begin to make his or herself at home in the new setting. You’ll find all sorts of various styles of hamster cages to make a choice from, you simply need to confirm whatever hamster cage you choose has a wheel for the hamster to exercise on. Also, try hard not to get a wire exercise wheel, because they definitely will cause harm to a hamster if the hamsters leg falls through the wires, so it is smart to find a solid plastic hamster wheel if possible. Try hard not to set the hamster cage in direct daylight, and also do not allow your hamster to get too warm or cold. After getting the whole thing established, you’re ready to buy a pet hamster at a pet store or from a hamster breeder. The hamster itself will often be rather inexpensive, and you got the hamster cage along with other supplies set up and waiting for your hamster, so you should not have to spend a lot of money at the pet shop . Try to make sure that wherever you make up your mind to purchase your hamster that the hamsters seem to be clean and well looked after. Ask how old the hamsters are and try and purchase a young one. Its not necessary to bring back home a pregnant hamster either, because then you may finish up with more than you bargained for! Last but not least, though hamsters are good at taking care of grooming themselves, you need to be sure to wash your hamster’s home continually. This is essential to your hamster’s health. It will only take about 10-15 minutes to do. If you follow these easy hamster care guiding principles and do the research online by reading as much info as you can, your hamster will worship you for it and you’ll be a better pet owner to your hamster.Visit http://hamsterpetsupplies.net/ to know more about hamster care.
For the ultimate selection of hamster cages and accessories check out Pets Pantry.
We also have a comprehensive selection of hamster foods and hamster toys all available to buy online and have delivered straight to your door.
Your Rats Health
April 22, 2010
As with all animals, there are some common health problems that rats may suffer from. If you have any concerns, always go direct to your vet.
The weekly health check
Get into the habit of examining your rats carefully every week. It’s a good idea to weigh them too. Make this a regular thing and you’ll bond better with your pets. And you’ll catch any problems early.
General – check that your rats’ behaviour is normal – inquisitive, active and playful. Loss of weight and loss of appetite are both signs that something is wrong. Gauge how they walk, looking for limping, trembling or signs of weakness. Obvious injuries and wounds should be treated immediately by your vet.
Mouth and nose – the nose should be clean and free from mucus. Check to ensure that your rats’ teeth haven’t grown too long. See whether they’re misaligned or chipped. Also look out for redness and swelling of the gums. Losing weight and loss of appetite is a sign that all is not well.
Eyes – they should be bright, clear and free of discharge. A bulging eye could indicate a tumour or abscess. If there is a bloody discharge from the eyes, this is called Porphyria – not good..
Fur and skin – the coat should be full and shiny. Excessive scratching and bald patches could be a sign of parasites, so check the fur carefully. Fleas and lice are visible to the naked eye but mites may be harder to spot.
Breathing – wheezing, congestion, rattling, laboured breathing and gasping are all signs of respiratory problems or more serious matters, such as heart issues.
Common health problems
Respiratory ailments – diseases of the respiratory tract are common in rats. Symptoms include snuffling, sneezing, nasal discharge and runny eyes. There are a number of possible causes, so always see your vet.
Dental problems – rats’ teeth grow continuously through their lives, so they need to gnaw to keep them in shape. If they are misaligned or chipped, gnawing won’t be effective and the teeth will become overgrown. This can lead to severe pain and prevent eating.
Parasites (mites, fleas, lice) – you can usually tell when parasites are present when there is itching, hair loss and small bumps on the skin. Flea treatments are widely available, but it’s best to get a vet’s diagnosis first when these symptoms show. Click here to see if Pets Pantry has a product that may help.
Housing Your Rat
April 22, 2010
Don’t hem your rats into a hamster home. Don’t jam them into a gerbil cage. They need a very large home, specially designed with rats in mind.
Their ideal cage is made of wire. You can keep a rat in a wooden cage. But not for long – they’ll gnaw through it in no time. And different levels connected by tunnels are a must.
Indoors beats outdoors hands down: rats hate being cold. They hate being hot too, so keep the cage at a constant temperature, away from draughts and radiators. Other places to avoid: anywhere near anything noisy. Keep TVs, loudspeakers and household appliances at a distance.
Bedding – line the cage floor with paper-based litter and cover it with shredded paper for bedding. Never use wood shavings, sawdust or fine litter. The dust may irritate and cause an allergic reaction.
Sleeping – there should be a separate sleeping area for your rats to nest in, filled with lovely soft bedding material. Shredded tissue paper is very comfy. Steer clear of straw – it’s too sharp and may damage your pets’ mouths.
Cleaning – rats are very clean and good hygiene is vital to their good health. Clean the cage thoroughly once a week and replace all the lining and bedding. Have a quick check two or three times a week to remove droppings and dirt.
Click here to see if Pets Pantry has a suitable home for your rat.
Handling Your Rat
April 22, 2010
When your rats arrive home with you, leave them alone for a few hours. They need to get used to the cage and the new surroundings. Before you try to pick up your pets, use some getting-to-know-you techniques to minimise stress. Let your hand be sniffed. Speak softly. Try some gentle stroking. All of which minimises stress. When you feel ready, and you feel they feel ready, scoop them up in your cupped hands.
Rats are very happy to sit in your lap or on your shoulder. They can’t have a quiet word in your ear, but you’ll be able to tell when they’re content. Just listen to them grinding their teeth. It’s called bruxing.
NEVER lift a rat by the tail – it can cause them discomfort.
The Well-Groomed Rat
Rats are hygiene-happy and will generally groom themselves. And any other rats in grooming distance too. But there may be times – if one of your rats is old or unwell, for example – when you need to give them a bath. Use warm water and a mild soap such as baby shampoo but be careful not to get either in the ears or eyes. Rubber ducks are optional.
Any Time is Playtime
One of the great joys of keeping rats is that they love to play. It’s great to watch, and great to join in. They don’t know it, but plenty of fun and exercise keeps them in good physical condition. It’s important for mental stimulation too.
So make sure their cage is filled with plenty of toys, tunnels and ropes. Do you have something that looks like a cross between a crèche and an army assault course? Perfect.
Your rats will enjoy running on a large wheel, but it must be solid – otherwise their tails might get caught. Rat balls are an excellent accessory to allow your pets to run safely around the room. And in pursuit of exercise, mental stimulation and emotional wellbeing, hide snacks around the cage for them to find.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s great range of Rat Toys help keep your rat happy and healthy.
Feeding Your Rat
April 22, 2010
Rats are omnivores – which means they’ll eat almost anything. Not that you should let them. In the wild, they’re scavengers and get all the nutrients they need from a varied diet. But as pets, they can be selective feeders. If you offer a coarse mix of grains, nuts and fruit, they’ll just choose what they like, buffet-style. And since they hoard food, you’ll be none the wiser.
To beat the problem, feed them an all-in-one food – Suparat Rat Royale is ideal. It has all the nutrients they need in every mouthful. And picky selective feeding is an impossibility. The feeding guide on the pack will tell you how much to give.
Rats love variety though, so give them the occasional healthy treat – Excel Nature Snacks are perfect. You can make a game of it and hide them round the cage. It’s a great pro-exercise, anti-boredom technique.
Fresh food should be given at the same time every day: once in the morning, once in the evening. Use a metal or ceramic bowl – they’re easier to clean, difficult to gnaw and harder to knock over. In the morning, take away any food left over from the day before.
Your rat should always have plenty of fresh, clean water. But from a water bottle, not a bowl.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s great range of Rat Foodss help keep your rat happy and healthy.
Housing Your Guinea Pig
April 22, 2010
Whether your guinea pigs live indoors or outside, a hutch is the perfect place for them. But it’s important to choose the right size, put it in the right place and put the right things in it.
SIZE – the hutch should be at least five times your guinea pig’s length and at least a foot wide – you’ll need to get a bigger hutch if you have more than one guinea pig. As a general rule: the more space, the better.
LINING – use soft wood chippings or shredded paper along with some fresh straw bedding to keep your pets comfortable and warm. An upside-down cardboard box makes good extra shelter and can easily be moved around.
LOCATION – guinea pigs live happily inside or outside, but the location of an outside hutch needs special care. Temperatures shouldn’t reach lower than 18?C or higher than 26?C – extremes of temperature, but especially overheating, will cause stress and discomfort. That means moving the hutch indoors during the colder winter months and keeping a careful eye on the temperature during hot summers – never place a hutch in direct sunlight.
An outside hutch should stand on bricks or legs to stop it getting wet in poor weather. Make sure the roof is waterproofed and sloped to let the rain drain off.
All guinea pigs need safe, daily access to an outside run where they can eat grass and exercise.
And finally, always, always keep the door locked – firstly to stop your guinea pigs escaping, and secondly to avoid predators like dogs, cats and foxes.
CLEANING – clean the hutch out two or three times a week – especially in warmer weather, to keep flies away. In extremely hot weather, bedding may need to be changed even more often to stop it becoming mouldy and damp.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s Guinea Pig Hutches if you are looking to house your guinea pig outside.
Exercise and Play for Your Guinea Pig
April 22, 2010
Guinea pigs like to play, so make sure there are plenty of toys for them.
Play makes them exercise, which is good for their physical health, and keeps them contented, which is good for them emotionally. Foraging and exercising in a run mimic their natural behaviour, keep them occupied and prevent boredom.
Guinea pigs are hunted by predators in the wild, so they’re naturally frightened of big, open spaces. Your pets will spend a lot of time around the edges of a room or run, so a few well-placed upside-down cardboard boxes will give them extra space where they can feel safe and exercise.
If the weather is bad, you can arrange all these things indoors. But life can get more interesting in an outside run. Firstly, make sure it’s placed out of direct sunlight and that there is a shelter inside. Then fill it with places to hide, things to climb and tunnels to run through – making sure it’s not too tight a squeeze and that they can’t escape.
Guinea pigs are natural foragers, so hide some food and your pets will enjoy looking for it. For example, try hiding some Excel Nature Snacks around their hutch or within Excel Herbage. In addition to providing nutrition, this echo of natural behaviour avoids boredom and improves your pets’ emotional health.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s Guinea Pig Toys for a great range of things to keep your guinea pig busy at play.
Guinea Pig Handling and Grooming
April 22, 2010
It’s easy to scare your guinea pigs when you approach them, so it’s best to crouch down and talk softly as you get nearer. Let your pets come to you – offer your hand to sniff, perhaps – then gently place your hand across their shoulder with the thumb tucked between the front legs on one side.
You should then be able to slowly lift your guinea pigs and support their weight by putting your other hand under the bottom. You should then hold your pets on your lap or, if you’re standing, close to your chest.
If your guinea pig is a long-haired breed, groom daily to keep the coat in good condition. But every breed likes some grooming – and it helps to strengthen the bond of friendship between you and your pets.
At Pets Pantry we have a selection of Guinea Pig Brushes to keep its coat in perfect condition.
Feeding Your Guinea Pig
April 22, 2010
What is often not understood is that guinea pigs need to keep their digestive systems busy with a mix of two kinds of fibre – digestible and indigestible -moving through the gut at all times.
Guinea pigs can’t get enough nutrition from fibre as it first passes through the gut. So they pass it through the gut again. Indigestible fibre is moved through their digestive system and excreted as separate, round, hard droppings. This acts to keep the digestive system moving and stimulate appetite.
Digestible fibre is moved up into an organ called the caecum – this is like a giant appendix. Good bacteria in the caecum ferment the fibre (making it easy to digest) which then emerges in the form of clumps of sticky droppings – called caecotrophs. Guinea pigs then re-eat the caecotrophs and their systems extract essential nutrition as the digestible fibre passes through for the second time.
Failing to provide adequate portions of the right kind of fibre can rapidly lead to illness or death. At Burgess Excel, we call the correct ratio of these two types of fibre ‘Beneficial Fibre’.
That’s why muesli-style foods are such a problem. Guinea pigs can become fussy eaters, and will eat sweet foods as an easy way to get a glucose fix. As a result, they can pick out unhealthy elements of muesli-style foods and leave the rest. This is called selective feeding and will inevitably lead to an imbalanced diet, lacking in calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D. Above all, this behaviour can lead to a lack of fibre with potentially fatal consequences. When taken with the fact that muesli-style foods are commonly low in fibre to begin with, the problem is compounded.
And finally, the unhealthy ingredients in muesli-style foods are high in sugar and starch. These are difficult for guinea pigs to digest and can lead to health problems and obesity.
These problems can be avoided by sticking to The Excel Feeding Plan and giving your guinea pigs Excel food. Both were developed by Burgess with one of the world’s leading small-animal vets to provide a perfect daily balance of fibre and nutrition.
Feeding Plan for Guinea Pigs
STEP 1 – Excel Herbage and Forage
These premium quality hay and grass foods should form most of your pets’ diet. They are especially good for dental health as they contain high levels of Beneficial Fibre that help to wear down teeth. The teeth of guinea pigs are constantly growing and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal problems.
STEP 2 – Excel Tasty Nuggets
These contain 100% natural, wholesome ingredients, are naturally high in Beneficial Fibre for digestive health and have added vitamins, minerals and prebiotics. Because they’re not a muesli-style mix, they prevent selective feeding.
STEP 3 – Excel Nature Snacks
These healthy, nutritious natural snacks are ideal for guinea pigs as they promote emotional health – preventing boredom and encouraging bonding and interaction between you and your pet. They can be fed daily, because they’re packed with goodness, and all made with pure, natural ingredients. Some are specially designed to be fed by hand which helps pets to get comfortable with human attention.
STEP 4
Guinea pigs can be fed fresh greens to give additional fresh nutrients and to provide some variety. But you need to be careful about what you feed them, and how much – please see below for more information
STEP 5
A plentiful supply of fresh, clean water must always be available.
Guinea pigs also need fresh greens or fruit – around a teacup a day. But be careful; not every fruit and vegetable is actually good for guinea pigs. Here’s a brief guide, but it is by no means exhaustive. Always check before feeding something new to your pets.
GOOD – apples, asparagus, basil, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cantaloupe melon, carrots and carrot tops, cauliflower leaves and stalks, celery, chicory, Chinese parsley, coriander, cucumber, dill, garden cress, grapefruit, gooseberries, honeydew melon, kale, kiwi fruit, mangoes, oranges, parsley, parsnips, peas, red cabbage, red chard, romaine lettuce, Savoy cabbage, spinach, strawberries, tangerines, tomatoes, turnips and water cress.
BAD – potato and potato tops, rhubarb and rhubarb leaves and tomato leaves.
Click here to see a great range of Burgess Guinea Pig Foods to keep your guinea pig fit and healthy.
Your Guinea Pig's Health
April 22, 2010
There are many different health problems that guinea pigs face, but most can be avoided by good diet and a healthy lifestyle. The rest need medical attention, so quick attention by a vet is vital. Although there are no specific vaccinations that your guinea pig should have, there are viruses and infectious diseases which can make your pet very unwell. Once they become ill, guinea pigs can deteriorate very quickly, so if you think your pet is off-colour, always see your vet as soon as possible.
Medical Emergencies
Poorly guinea pigs will often show a set of non-specific symptoms. As soon as you see any of the symptoms on this list, which may be a sign of serious problems, take your guinea pig to the vet as soon as possible:
Refusal to eat or drink; lethargy; difficult or laboured breathing; sneezing; crusty eyes; limping; loss of balance; excessive scratching; hair loss; uncontrollable bleeding; extreme drop in body temperature; diarrhoea; blood present in urine; signs of temporary paralysis.
You should also know that penicillin-based medication is poisonous to guinea pigs.
Problems caused by poor diet
The following problems are often due to poor diet, lack of exercise and lack of general care. They’re easily avoided by giving your guinea pigs the right food and plenty of exercise and, most importantly, by carrying out regular health checks.
Dental problems
Your guinea pigs’ teeth will continue to grow all their lives and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal health problems – typical symptoms are excessive drooling and loss of appetite.
To wear down your guinea pigs’ teeth and help to keep them healthy, feed a naturally-abrasive, fibre-rich food like Burgess Excel Herbage or Forage and check the teeth regularly.
Hypovitaminosis C
This condition is more commonly known as scurvy and it stems from a lack of vitamin C. It’s something that your guinea pigs can’t produce naturally and the result can be lameness, loss of teeth, rough coat, loss of hair, pain on handling and anorexia. So you must be absolutely sure your pets’ diet compensates – check that the nugget food you’re feeding them has added vitamin C. There are extremely high levels of protected vitamin C in Burgess Excel Tasty Nuggets for Guinea Pigs. Incidentally, this is why you should never feed your guinea pigs on rabbit food – there’s nowhere near enough vitamin C in it for a guinea pig’s needs.
General problems
Abscesses – guinea pigs are very susceptible to abscesses which can be caused by knocks or fights.
Skin complaints – these are very common, particularly mange, which is caused by a mite burrowing under the skin. Look for the symptoms: little raised spots which are itchy and cause your pet to scratch, and that leads to scabs and loss of hair. Always see your vet for a correct diagnosis and treatment.
Health Checks
Every guinea pig is different, and it’s good to get to know how. Once you’re familiar with your pets’ normal habits and behaviour, it will be easier to spot when they’re ill.
You can help to maintain your pets’ good health by learning to do some simple health checks every week. It’s a good way to increase the bond between you and these quick and easy checks are best done when your guinea pig is feeling comfortable and relaxed – you might find that an Excel Nature Snack helps.
And never forget: if in doubt, always consult your vet immediately.
Ears – gently look inside and make sure they’re clean and free from mites and fleas.
Eyes – make sure the eyes are clear and shiny. Dull, swollen eyes are often a sign of illness and can lead to blindness.
Teeth – check to make sure there isn’t any excessive drooling which can be a sign of dental problems. Be careful with this health check: your pet might not be comfortable with having its mouth inspected and may bite.
Feet – gently hold and feel the feet to make sure you pet hasn’t injured itself. Check their claws too – they need to be clipped to keep them at a safe length; ask your vet to show you how to do this properly.
Fur – gently feel and look to check that there are no bald patches, no signs of mites or fleas and no injuries.
Weight – weigh your pet on a regular basis to see that it is maintaining a constant weight that is healthy for its age. Regular visits to your vet will tell you what the weight should be. Watching the scales is important – obesity is a serious illness that can lead to other health problems.
Have a look at Pets Pantry’s Guinea Pig Remedies section for products to help keep your guinea pig fit and healthy.
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Companionship
Rabbits are social animals, and it’s better to have more than one. Ideally, they should be of similar sizes, to stop bullying.
Rabbits from the same litter get on well, but should always be neutered. Un-related females generally tolerate each other given enough space, but may still fight. Un-related males will almost certainly fight and can inflict nasty injuries. In both cases, neutering is recommended by vets to improve the situation.
Never keep rabbits with guinea pigs or chinchillas. They have very different food and housing needs and may fight.
Whether your rabbits live indoors or outside, a hutch is the perfect home. But there are many designs, shapes and sizes, so choosing the right one is essential.
SIZE – the hutch should be high enough for your rabbits to stand on their back legs, and with enough floor area to allow a minimum of three to four hops in any direction. You’ll need to get a bigger hutch the more rabbits you have.
LAYOUT – there should be separate eating and toilet areas. If you have more than one rabbit, there should also be somewhere for them to be alone.
LINING – line the floor with newspaper.
BEDDING – cover the lining with bedding material of hay, barley straw or dust-free wood chippings. This helps to absorb urine and keep the hutch comfortable.
TOILET – rabbits are clean animals by nature, so make a separate litter area, deep-sided and lined with newspaper and hay, which you should change regularly.
LOCATION – the hutch should always be dry, well-ventilated and kept cool – heat can be fatal to rabbits. Indoors, avoid sites next to radiators. Outside, avoid south-facing walls and direct sunlight. In the colder winter months, add extra bedding to an outdoor hutch and move it into a garage.
CLEANING – rabbits leave scent markings which extreme cleaning can remove. This may cause them stress, but hygiene is important. Spot clean soiled areas when needed, but change all bedding and clean thoroughly every two or three days – always leaving a small corner untouched so it smells familiar.
It’s also important to consider the surroundings when your rabbit is out of the hutch.
Rabbits love to chew and gnaw, so when they’re living indoors, the house needs to be rabbit-proofed. Wires are an easy target, so metal ducting may be useful to cover them up. Also, be aware of wooden and laminate floors which can easily cause your rabbits to slip, injuring the lower back.
For outdoor rabbits, it’s important to rat-proof the area where they’re living. Fear of predators – like dogs, foxes and birds of prey – can cause stress, so try to minimise it. If a neighbour has a noisy dog, for example, house your rabbit as far away as possible. Ideally cover the hutch at night so that the rabbit cannot see outside should any predators enter the garden.
You should also make sure the garden is free of plants that are poisonous to rabbits.
Exercise and Play
Rabbits like to play, so make sure they have plenty of toys. Play is very good for them because it helps to keep them physically active and healthy and helps to prevent behavioural problems like fur plucking that can arise if they get bored.
You can provide a variety of toys from pet shops or use household objects. Small boxes to stand on, large pieces of plastic pipe (ensuring your pets can’t get stuck) as activity tunnels (these can be also be bought from pet shops), toilet roll tubes stuffed with Excel Herbage and willow balls with treats stuck in them are all good.
In the garden a large, secure, covered run makes an ideal play and exercise area, and it’s simple to make an indoor version if required.
Foraging is natural behaviour for rabbits, so let them go searching for food hidden in plenty of hay – Excel Nature Snacks are perfect for them to find.
Safe Handling your Rabbit
Rabbits need time to get used to their surroundings, so don’t try to pick yours up for the first few days. Instead, talk to your pets softly and try gentle stroking so you get to know each other. After a while, your rabbits should feel confident and comfortable enough in your company to let themselves be handled.
It takes two hands to pick your rabbits up properly, one taking the majority of the weight under the bottom. Rabbits are happy to be held, but can get jumpy if they don’t feel secure, so keep them close to your body and, especially for the first few times, not too far off the floor, in case they try to jump. It’s good to have a non-slip surface to handle them on, a towel or carpet for example.
Never pick your rabbits up by the ears or the scruff of the neck – it is extremely stressful.
Grooming your Rabbit
Some breeds of rabbit, particularly the long-haired varieties, need you to groom them daily to remove loose and matted hair. It keeps your rabbits in good condition, and helps to improve the relationship between you. There are many different combs and brushes available – always ask which ones are suitable for your rabbits.
Neutering you Rabbit
Vets and rabbit experts recommend neutering for all pet rabbits. In females, it prevents unwanted pregnancy and eliminates cancer of the uterus, but it makes both sexes calmer and less aggressive.
Ideally, neutering should take place before the age of six months. Females (does) can be neutered from 14 weeks, males (bucks) as soon as the testicles have descended. Bucks can remain fertile for four weeks after the procedure, so they should be kept separate from un-neutered does during that time.
Feeding your Rabbit
What is often not understood is that rabbits need to keep their digestive systems busy with a mix of two kinds of fibre – digestible and indigestible –moving through the gut at all times.
Rabbits can’t get enough nutrition from fibre as it first passes through the gut. So they pass it through the gut again. Indigestible fibre is moved through their digestive system and excreted as separate, round, hard droppings. This acts to keep the digestive system moving and stimulate appetite.
Digestible fibre is moved up into an organ called the caecum – this is like a giant appendix. Good bacteria in the caecum ferment the fibre (making it easy to digest) which then emerges in the form of clumps of sticky droppings – called caecotrophs. Rabbits then re-eat the caecotrophs and their systems extract essential nutrition as the digestible fibre passes through for the second time.
Failing to provide adequate portions of the right kind of fibre can rapidly lead to illness or death. At Burgess Excel, we call the correct ratio of these two types of fibre ‘Beneficial Fibre’.
That’s why muesli-style foods are such a problem. Rabbits can become fussy eaters, and will eat sweet foods as an easy way to get a glucose fix. As a result, they can pick out unhealthy elements of muesli-style foods and leave the rest. This is called selective feeding and will inevitably lead to an imbalanced diet, lacking in calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D. Above all, this behaviour can lead to a lack of fibre with potentially fatal consequences. When taken with the fact that muesli-style foods are commonly low in fibre to begin with, the problem is compounded.
And finally, the unhealthy ingredients in muesli-style foods are high in sugar and starch. These are difficult for rabbits to digest and can lead to health problems and obesity. Rabbits eat caecotrophs directly from their bottoms –obese rabbits often cannot reach the caecotrophs which can lead to malnutrition and death.
The problem can be avoided by sticking to The Excel Feeding Plan and giving your rabbits Excel food. Both were developed by Burgess with one of the world’s leading small-animal vets to provide a perfect daily balance of fibre and nutrition.
Click here to view products in the Excel Feeding Plan for Rabbits
STEP 1 – Excel Herbage and Forage
These premium quality hay and grass foods should form most of your pets’ diet. They are especially good for dental health as they contain high levels of Beneficial Fibre that help to wear down teeth. The teeth of rabbits are constantly growing and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal problems.
STEP 2 – Excel Tasty Nuggets
These contain 100% natural, wholesome ingredients, are naturally high in Beneficial Fibre for digestive health and have added vitamins, minerals and prebiotics. Because they’re not a muesli-style mix, they prevent selective feeding.
STEP 3 – Excel Nature Snacks
These healthy, nutritious natural snacks are ideal for rabbits as they promote emotional health – preventing boredom and encouraging bonding and interaction between you and your pet. They can be fed daily because they’re packed with goodness, and are all made with pure, natural ingredients. Some are specially designed to be fed by hand which helps pets to get comfortable with human attention.
STEP 4
Rabbits can be fed fresh greens to give additional fresh nutrients and to provide some variety. But you need to be careful about what you feed them, and how much – please see below for more information
STEP 5
A plentiful supply of fresh, clean water must always be available.
You can feed fresh fruit and vegetables too, but keep quantities small – about a teacup a day of fresh greens is enough for adult rabbits. Their digestive systems are not able to digest large quantities of these rich foods, the result being diarrhoea.
Not all fruit, vegetables and greenery are good for rabbits – here’s a brief guide.
GOOD – apple (pip-less), asparagus, banana, basil, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots – especially carrot tops, cauliflower leaves and stalks, celery, chicory, cucumber, dill, fennel, grapes, green pepper, kale, mint, orange (peeled), oregano, parsley, red leaf lettuce, red cabbage, romaine lettuce, Savoy cabbage, spinach, tomato, turnip, watercress.
BAD – apple pips, potato and potato tops, rhubarb (leaves and stalks), tomato leaves, locust pods and beans, avacados.
Chinchilla Companionship
Chinchillas are largely nocturnal, but become active during the evening and throughout the night – perfect for when owners get back from work or school. Very young children and chinchillas, however, aren’t always a good partnership because the animals are very sensitive to rough handling and are not particularly good at sitting still to be petted.
Chinchillas like the company of other chinchillas. Choose a pair or a group, but try to make them all the same sex, and it’s best to get all your pets at the same time.
Housing your Chinchilla
When it comes to choosing your chinchillas’ cage, your motto should be the bigger – the better. Chinchillas are busy, active, inquisitive animals and they love lots of space to jump and play around in.
The best cages are made from wire mesh (which should have a mesh no larger than 15mm x 15mm) which extends across the floor too. They love to chew and would gnaw their way through a wooden floor in no time.
The wire cage bottom also allows urine and droppings to fall through into a tray where it can be absorbed by newspaper or dust-free wood chippings. This not only makes cleaning up easier, it keeps your chinchillas away from damp litter too – they’re very prone to catching colds in damp conditions.
The handy tray also stops droppings getting caught up in your pets’ thick coats.
Replace soiled litter every day and clean the entire cage with a safe disinfectant (you can buy special cleaning agents from specialist pet shops) once a week.
To give your chinchillas’ feet a rest from standing on the wire (which can lead to a chronic condition called bumblefoot), fit some solid shelves and branches to sit on – ideally these should be apple or pear as some branches have sap that can be poisonous. Make them out of soft wood – it keeps your pets entertained to have something to chew on.
Within the cage, you should create a small bedroom area where your pets can snuggle up and feel secure. You can buy a small chinchilla nest box from specialist pet shops, and these don’t need bedding. But your pet will eventually chew through it, so make sure there are no nails or staples in its construction.
Showing behaviour that’s unique amongst rodents, your chinchillas will love a bath – not a water bath, but a good sand bath to keep the coat in tip-top condition. Have a special container and fill it with approved chinchilla sand only, which stops the skin being damaged. Put the bath in the cage several times a week, but only for ten minutes at a time, in case it gets used as a toilet.
A constant temperature is ideal, so you should put the cage out of direct sunlight and away from draughts and radiators. Your chinchillas will bear cold quite well, but may be prone to over-heating. At temperatures greater than 25?C, chinchillas cool themselves down by sending blood to their large ears – so red ears can be a sign of over-heating.
Exercise and Play for your Chinchilla
Your chinchillas may think it’s play, but it’s really exercise – and both are vital for a happy, healthy life.
The cage makes a perfect playground. As we said in the housing section there should be shelves and branches, but rails and ramps make exciting new routes to explore too.
A scattering of wooden chewing blocks increases the fun, as does hiding healthy Excel Nature Snacks for your chinchillas to sniff out.
The cage is a great place for games, but a little time exploring the wider world of your room is good too. Rule 1: make the room escape-proof – your chinchillas could be out through a tiny gap quick as a shot. Rule 2: make the room chew-proof – it’s especially important to safeguard wires that your pets could easily gnaw through.
Worried about an escape bid or damage? Build a special exercise run or playpen instead – but putting them in a run outside is not recommended as if they do escape you will be highly unlikely to get them back.
Handling your Chinchilla
Chinchillas are, by nature, timid creatures, so allow a few days of settling when you first get them home. Talk softly to your pets, so your voice is easily recognised, but avoid touching.
Start to form a bond by hand-feeding Excel Nature Snacks, always being careful to make very gentle movements in the cage. Move on gradually to stroking and, finally, to picking your chinchillas up.
Pick up your pets by putting one hand firmly under the bottom and the other over the back and pulling into your chest with the head facing you – that way your chinchillas will feel secure. Their ribs are very, very fragile, so be very, very gentle.
If you handle your pets regularly, they will become more confident and relaxed.
Chinchillas very rarely bite, but they’re very sensitive to rough handling and show their distress in other ways. Keep an eye out for ‘fur slip’, when patches of fur are shed, which is a sure sign of fear or distress.
Never pick your chinchillas up by the tail – it will cause pain and distress and may lead to skin coming away, known as fur slip.
Feeding your Chinchilla
What is often not understood is that chinchillas need to keep their digestive systems busy with a mix of two kinds of fibre – digestible and indigestible –moving through the gut at all times.
Chinchillas can’t get enough nutrition from fibre as it first passes through the gut. So they pass it through the gut again. Indigestible fibre is moved through their digestive system and excreted as separate, round, hard droppings. This acts to keep the digestive system moving and stimulate appetite.
Digestible fibre is moved up into an organ called the caecum – this is like a giant appendix. Good bacteria in the caecum ferment the fibre (making it easy to digest) which then emerges in the form of clumps of sticky droppings – called caecotrophs. Chinchillas then re-eat the caecotrophs and their systems extract essential nutrition as the digestible fibre passes through for the second time.
Failing to provide adequate portions of the right kind of fibre can rapidly lead to illness or death. At Burgess Excel, we call the correct ratio of these two types of fibre ‘Beneficial Fibre’.
That’s why muesli-style foods are such a problem. Chinchillas can become fussy eaters, and will eat sweet foods as an easy way to get a glucose fix. As a result, they can pick out unhealthy elements of muesli-style foods and leave the rest. This is called selective feeding and will inevitably lead to an imbalanced diet, lacking in calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D. Above all, this behaviour can lead to a lack of fibre with potentially fatal consequences. When taken with the fact that muesli-style foods are commonly low in fibre to begin with, the problem is compounded.
And finally, the unhealthy ingredients in muesli-style foods are high in sugar and starch. These are difficult for chinchillas to digest and can lead to health problems and obesity.
These problems can be avoided by sticking to The Excel Feeding Plan and giving your chinchillas Excel food. Both were developed by Burgess with one of the world’s leading small-animal vets to provide a perfect daily balance of fibre and nutrition. Click here to view products in the Excel Feeding Plan for Chinchillas
STEP 1 – Excel Herbage and Forage
These premium quality hay and grass foods should form most of your pets’ diet. They are especially good for dental health as they contain high levels of Beneficial Fibre that help to wear down teeth. The teeth of chinchillas are constantly growing and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal problems.
STEP 2 – Excel Tasty Nuggets
These contain 100% natural, wholesome ingredients, are naturally high in Beneficial Fibre for digestive health and have added vitamins, minerals and prebiotics. Because they’re not a muesli-style mix, they prevent selective feeding.
STEP 3 – Excel Nature Snacks
These healthy, nutritious natural snacks are ideal for chinchillas as they promote emotional health – preventing boredom and encouraging bonding and interaction between you and your pet. They can be fed daily because they’re packed with goodness, and all made with pure, natural ingredients. Some are specially designed to be fed by hand which helps pets to get comfortable with human attention.
STEP 4
Chinchillas can be fed fresh greens to give additional fresh nutrients and to provide some variety. But you need to be careful about what you feed them, and how much – please see below for more information
STEP 5
A plentiful supply of fresh, clean water must always be available.
Your chinchillas will love to eat fresh fruit and vegetables – but too much of a good thing is actually very bad for them. Around a teaspoon every day or every other day is perfect for an adult chinchilla. Some foods should be avoided altogether and you should be careful never to overfeed – because that can cause bloat, which can kill.
GOOD – apple, blueberry, carrot, celery, grape, orange, potato, pumpkin, squash, sweet potato. The snack that chinchillas love most of all however is raisins.
Just because they’re small, don’t go thinking that you can give a rat any less care, commitment and love than you’d give to a bigger pet. In this guide, we show you by far the best way to give your pets the time of their little lives – which usually last around two years.
The more you get to know your rats (Latin name Rattus norvegicus), and get to know about them, the better. There’s more fun to be had, and more reward, every single day.
Rats make excellent pets, especially for older children and adults. They’re clean, friendly, inquisitive and highly intelligent. They love a bit of problem-solving – and you can even teach them tricks. They bond well with people and rarely bite.
Although rats are sleepy-heads all day long, they’re usually up in the late afternoon and evening. Bright-eyed, long-tailed and ready for action – absolutely ideal for when you get in.
Background
Wild rats can be found all over Europe, although they originated in Asia. The population spread across the world when the rats were sneaky stowaways on merchant ships. The domestic or fancy rat is descended from the Brown Rat (also known as the Norwegian Rat) and is thought to have originated from Asia moving into Europe in 1553 and then onto the US in 1775.
Domesticated rats are very clean, intelligent animals. They are very different to their wild cousins.
There are many different colour variations among rats, and three types of coat – smooth-haired, rex and hairless.
To take the best care of your rats, you’ll need all these things:
Large multi-level cage
Wood shavings
Soft bedding
Tubes and other toys
Suparat complete food
Ceramic food bowl
Water bottle
Gnaw blocks
Pet Safe disinfectant
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Hamsters are actually excellent house animals for people of every age group due to their cleanliness and cuteness, plus hamsters are fairly low-cost and simple to maintain. A hamster typically makes the best pet for kids helping train responsibility. The typical lifespan of a hamster is around 1-3 years, and on that basis a few people say that looking after a hamster is a great way for a kid to eventually learn to cope with loss. There are several different types of hamsters, though the one most traditionally reserved as a pet is the lovable Syrian hamster breed.Syrian hamsters are probably the biggest type of hamster, and they are observed in several pretty diverse shades, in longhaired or shorthaired selection. The longhaired Syrian hamster is generally labelled a toy bear hamster. A full-grown Syrian hamster usually grows up to about four to 6 inches long. A significant point to be aware of concerning Syrian hamsters is that you ought to not maintain more than one per cage, if 2 Syrian hamsters are made to share the same place, they will probably assault and could seriously injured one another. These most well liked hamsters are Dwarf hamsters, which just grow to 3 to 4 inches in length, meaning that name Dwarf hamsters. These lovable little fellows could be placed together with other Dwarf hamsters and they could usually get along definitely alright. Before you pick out to buy a hamster as a pet, you may decide to purchase all the supplies you need, such as hamster cage, water bottle, food, bedding and toys. You can acquire and buy some of the goods you need to prepare for a new pet hamster by searching on the internet; I suppose that is just how one can find the best discounts on pet supplies. Get your hamster’s home designed and prepared previously, so that the hamster can relax and quickly begin to make his or herself at home in the new setting. You’ll find all sorts of various styles of hamster cages to make a choice from, you simply need to confirm whatever hamster cage you choose has a wheel for the hamster to exercise on. Also, try hard not to get a wire exercise wheel, because they definitely will cause harm to a hamster if the hamsters leg falls through the wires, so it is smart to find a solid plastic hamster wheel if possible. Try hard not to set the hamster cage in direct daylight, and also do not allow your hamster to get too warm or cold. After getting the whole thing established, you’re ready to buy a pet hamster at a pet store or from a hamster breeder. The hamster itself will often be rather inexpensive, and you got the hamster cage along with other supplies set up and waiting for your hamster, so you should not have to spend a lot of money at the pet shop . Try to make sure that wherever you make up your mind to purchase your hamster that the hamsters seem to be clean and well looked after. Ask how old the hamsters are and try and purchase a young one. Its not necessary to bring back home a pregnant hamster either, because then you may finish up with more than you bargained for! Last but not least, though hamsters are good at taking care of grooming themselves, you need to be sure to wash your hamster’s home continually. This is essential to your hamster’s health. It will only take about 10-15 minutes to do. If you follow these easy hamster care guiding principles and do the research online by reading as much info as you can, your hamster will worship you for it and you’ll be a better pet owner to your hamster.Visit http://hamsterpetsupplies.net/ to know more about hamster care.
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For the ultimate selection of hamster cages and accessories check out Pets Pantry.
We also have a comprehensive selection of hamster foods and hamster toys all available to buy online and have delivered straight to your door.
As with all animals, there are some common health problems that rats may suffer from. If you have any concerns, always go direct to your vet.
The weekly health check
Get into the habit of examining your rats carefully every week. It’s a good idea to weigh them too. Make this a regular thing and you’ll bond better with your pets. And you’ll catch any problems early.
General – check that your rats’ behaviour is normal – inquisitive, active and playful. Loss of weight and loss of appetite are both signs that something is wrong. Gauge how they walk, looking for limping, trembling or signs of weakness. Obvious injuries and wounds should be treated immediately by your vet.
Mouth and nose – the nose should be clean and free from mucus. Check to ensure that your rats’ teeth haven’t grown too long. See whether they’re misaligned or chipped. Also look out for redness and swelling of the gums. Losing weight and loss of appetite is a sign that all is not well.
Eyes – they should be bright, clear and free of discharge. A bulging eye could indicate a tumour or abscess. If there is a bloody discharge from the eyes, this is called Porphyria – not good..
Fur and skin – the coat should be full and shiny. Excessive scratching and bald patches could be a sign of parasites, so check the fur carefully. Fleas and lice are visible to the naked eye but mites may be harder to spot.
Breathing – wheezing, congestion, rattling, laboured breathing and gasping are all signs of respiratory problems or more serious matters, such as heart issues.
Common health problems
Respiratory ailments – diseases of the respiratory tract are common in rats. Symptoms include snuffling, sneezing, nasal discharge and runny eyes. There are a number of possible causes, so always see your vet.
Dental problems – rats’ teeth grow continuously through their lives, so they need to gnaw to keep them in shape. If they are misaligned or chipped, gnawing won’t be effective and the teeth will become overgrown. This can lead to severe pain and prevent eating.
Parasites (mites, fleas, lice) – you can usually tell when parasites are present when there is itching, hair loss and small bumps on the skin. Flea treatments are widely available, but it’s best to get a vet’s diagnosis first when these symptoms show.
Click here to see if Pets Pantry has a product that may help.
Don’t hem your rats into a hamster home. Don’t jam them into a gerbil cage. They need a very large home, specially designed with rats in mind.
Their ideal cage is made of wire. You can keep a rat in a wooden cage. But not for long – they’ll gnaw through it in no time. And different levels connected by tunnels are a must.
Indoors beats outdoors hands down: rats hate being cold. They hate being hot too, so keep the cage at a constant temperature, away from draughts and radiators. Other places to avoid: anywhere near anything noisy. Keep TVs, loudspeakers and household appliances at a distance.
Bedding – line the cage floor with paper-based litter and cover it with shredded paper for bedding. Never use wood shavings, sawdust or fine litter. The dust may irritate and cause an allergic reaction.
Sleeping – there should be a separate sleeping area for your rats to nest in, filled with lovely soft bedding material. Shredded tissue paper is very comfy. Steer clear of straw – it’s too sharp and may damage your pets’ mouths.
Cleaning – rats are very clean and good hygiene is vital to their good health. Clean the cage thoroughly once a week and replace all the lining and bedding. Have a quick check two or three times a week to remove droppings and dirt.
Click here to see if Pets Pantry has a suitable home for your rat.
When your rats arrive home with you, leave them alone for a few hours. They need to get used to the cage and the new surroundings. Before you try to pick up your pets, use some getting-to-know-you techniques to minimise stress. Let your hand be sniffed. Speak softly. Try some gentle stroking. All of which minimises stress. When you feel ready, and you feel they feel ready, scoop them up in your cupped hands.
Rats are very happy to sit in your lap or on your shoulder. They can’t have a quiet word in your ear, but you’ll be able to tell when they’re content. Just listen to them grinding their teeth. It’s called bruxing.
NEVER lift a rat by the tail – it can cause them discomfort.
The Well-Groomed Rat
Rats are hygiene-happy and will generally groom themselves. And any other rats in grooming distance too. But there may be times – if one of your rats is old or unwell, for example – when you need to give them a bath. Use warm water and a mild soap such as baby shampoo but be careful not to get either in the ears or eyes. Rubber ducks are optional.
Any Time is Playtime
One of the great joys of keeping rats is that they love to play. It’s great to watch, and great to join in. They don’t know it, but plenty of fun and exercise keeps them in good physical condition. It’s important for mental stimulation too.
So make sure their cage is filled with plenty of toys, tunnels and ropes. Do you have something that looks like a cross between a crèche and an army assault course? Perfect.
Your rats will enjoy running on a large wheel, but it must be solid – otherwise their tails might get caught. Rat balls are an excellent accessory to allow your pets to run safely around the room. And in pursuit of exercise, mental stimulation and emotional wellbeing, hide snacks around the cage for them to find.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s great range of Rat Toys help keep your rat happy and healthy.
Rats are omnivores – which means they’ll eat almost anything. Not that you should let them. In the wild, they’re scavengers and get all the nutrients they need from a varied diet. But as pets, they can be selective feeders. If you offer a coarse mix of grains, nuts and fruit, they’ll just choose what they like, buffet-style. And since they hoard food, you’ll be none the wiser.
To beat the problem, feed them an all-in-one food – Suparat Rat Royale is ideal. It has all the nutrients they need in every mouthful. And picky selective feeding is an impossibility. The feeding guide on the pack will tell you how much to give.
Rats love variety though, so give them the occasional healthy treat – Excel Nature Snacks are perfect. You can make a game of it and hide them round the cage. It’s a great pro-exercise, anti-boredom technique.
Fresh food should be given at the same time every day: once in the morning, once in the evening. Use a metal or ceramic bowl – they’re easier to clean, difficult to gnaw and harder to knock over. In the morning, take away any food left over from the day before.
Your rat should always have plenty of fresh, clean water. But from a water bottle, not a bowl.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s great range of Rat Foodss help keep your rat happy and healthy.
Whether your guinea pigs live indoors or outside, a hutch is the perfect place for them. But it’s important to choose the right size, put it in the right place and put the right things in it.
SIZE – the hutch should be at least five times your guinea pig’s length and at least a foot wide – you’ll need to get a bigger hutch if you have more than one guinea pig. As a general rule: the more space, the better.
LINING – use soft wood chippings or shredded paper along with some fresh straw bedding to keep your pets comfortable and warm. An upside-down cardboard box makes good extra shelter and can easily be moved around.
LOCATION – guinea pigs live happily inside or outside, but the location of an outside hutch needs special care. Temperatures shouldn’t reach lower than 18?C or higher than 26?C – extremes of temperature, but especially overheating, will cause stress and discomfort. That means moving the hutch indoors during the colder winter months and keeping a careful eye on the temperature during hot summers – never place a hutch in direct sunlight.
An outside hutch should stand on bricks or legs to stop it getting wet in poor weather. Make sure the roof is waterproofed and sloped to let the rain drain off.
All guinea pigs need safe, daily access to an outside run where they can eat grass and exercise.
And finally, always, always keep the door locked – firstly to stop your guinea pigs escaping, and secondly to avoid predators like dogs, cats and foxes.
CLEANING – clean the hutch out two or three times a week – especially in warmer weather, to keep flies away. In extremely hot weather, bedding may need to be changed even more often to stop it becoming mouldy and damp.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s Guinea Pig Hutches if you are looking to house your guinea pig outside.
Guinea pigs like to play, so make sure there are plenty of toys for them.
Play makes them exercise, which is good for their physical health, and keeps them contented, which is good for them emotionally. Foraging and exercising in a run mimic their natural behaviour, keep them occupied and prevent boredom.
Guinea pigs are hunted by predators in the wild, so they’re naturally frightened of big, open spaces. Your pets will spend a lot of time around the edges of a room or run, so a few well-placed upside-down cardboard boxes will give them extra space where they can feel safe and exercise.
If the weather is bad, you can arrange all these things indoors. But life can get more interesting in an outside run. Firstly, make sure it’s placed out of direct sunlight and that there is a shelter inside. Then fill it with places to hide, things to climb and tunnels to run through – making sure it’s not too tight a squeeze and that they can’t escape.
Guinea pigs are natural foragers, so hide some food and your pets will enjoy looking for it. For example, try hiding some Excel Nature Snacks around their hutch or within Excel Herbage. In addition to providing nutrition, this echo of natural behaviour avoids boredom and improves your pets’ emotional health.
Take a look at Pets Pantry’s Guinea Pig Toys for a great range of things to keep your guinea pig busy at play.
It’s easy to scare your guinea pigs when you approach them, so it’s best to crouch down and talk softly as you get nearer. Let your pets come to you – offer your hand to sniff, perhaps – then gently place your hand across their shoulder with the thumb tucked between the front legs on one side.
You should then be able to slowly lift your guinea pigs and support their weight by putting your other hand under the bottom. You should then hold your pets on your lap or, if you’re standing, close to your chest.
If your guinea pig is a long-haired breed, groom daily to keep the coat in good condition. But every breed likes some grooming – and it helps to strengthen the bond of friendship between you and your pets.
At Pets Pantry we have a selection of Guinea Pig Brushes to keep its coat in perfect condition.
What is often not understood is that guinea pigs need to keep their digestive systems busy with a mix of two kinds of fibre – digestible and indigestible -moving through the gut at all times.
Guinea pigs can’t get enough nutrition from fibre as it first passes through the gut. So they pass it through the gut again. Indigestible fibre is moved through their digestive system and excreted as separate, round, hard droppings. This acts to keep the digestive system moving and stimulate appetite.
Digestible fibre is moved up into an organ called the caecum – this is like a giant appendix. Good bacteria in the caecum ferment the fibre (making it easy to digest) which then emerges in the form of clumps of sticky droppings – called caecotrophs. Guinea pigs then re-eat the caecotrophs and their systems extract essential nutrition as the digestible fibre passes through for the second time.
Failing to provide adequate portions of the right kind of fibre can rapidly lead to illness or death. At Burgess Excel, we call the correct ratio of these two types of fibre ‘Beneficial Fibre’.
That’s why muesli-style foods are such a problem. Guinea pigs can become fussy eaters, and will eat sweet foods as an easy way to get a glucose fix. As a result, they can pick out unhealthy elements of muesli-style foods and leave the rest. This is called selective feeding and will inevitably lead to an imbalanced diet, lacking in calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D. Above all, this behaviour can lead to a lack of fibre with potentially fatal consequences. When taken with the fact that muesli-style foods are commonly low in fibre to begin with, the problem is compounded.
And finally, the unhealthy ingredients in muesli-style foods are high in sugar and starch. These are difficult for guinea pigs to digest and can lead to health problems and obesity.
These problems can be avoided by sticking to The Excel Feeding Plan and giving your guinea pigs Excel food. Both were developed by Burgess with one of the world’s leading small-animal vets to provide a perfect daily balance of fibre and nutrition.
Feeding Plan for Guinea Pigs
STEP 1 – Excel Herbage and Forage
These premium quality hay and grass foods should form most of your pets’ diet. They are especially good for dental health as they contain high levels of Beneficial Fibre that help to wear down teeth. The teeth of guinea pigs are constantly growing and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal problems.
STEP 2 – Excel Tasty Nuggets
These contain 100% natural, wholesome ingredients, are naturally high in Beneficial Fibre for digestive health and have added vitamins, minerals and prebiotics. Because they’re not a muesli-style mix, they prevent selective feeding.
STEP 3 – Excel Nature Snacks
These healthy, nutritious natural snacks are ideal for guinea pigs as they promote emotional health – preventing boredom and encouraging bonding and interaction between you and your pet. They can be fed daily, because they’re packed with goodness, and all made with pure, natural ingredients. Some are specially designed to be fed by hand which helps pets to get comfortable with human attention.
STEP 4
Guinea pigs can be fed fresh greens to give additional fresh nutrients and to provide some variety. But you need to be careful about what you feed them, and how much – please see below for more information
STEP 5
A plentiful supply of fresh, clean water must always be available.
Guinea pigs also need fresh greens or fruit – around a teacup a day. But be careful; not every fruit and vegetable is actually good for guinea pigs. Here’s a brief guide, but it is by no means exhaustive. Always check before feeding something new to your pets.
GOOD – apples, asparagus, basil, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cantaloupe melon, carrots and carrot tops, cauliflower leaves and stalks, celery, chicory, Chinese parsley, coriander, cucumber, dill, garden cress, grapefruit, gooseberries, honeydew melon, kale, kiwi fruit, mangoes, oranges, parsley, parsnips, peas, red cabbage, red chard, romaine lettuce, Savoy cabbage, spinach, strawberries, tangerines, tomatoes, turnips and water cress.
BAD – potato and potato tops, rhubarb and rhubarb leaves and tomato leaves.
Click here to see a great range of Burgess Guinea Pig Foods to keep your guinea pig fit and healthy.
There are many different health problems that guinea pigs face, but most can be avoided by good diet and a healthy lifestyle. The rest need medical attention, so quick attention by a vet is vital. Although there are no specific vaccinations that your guinea pig should have, there are viruses and infectious diseases which can make your pet very unwell. Once they become ill, guinea pigs can deteriorate very quickly, so if you think your pet is off-colour, always see your vet as soon as possible.
Medical Emergencies
Poorly guinea pigs will often show a set of non-specific symptoms. As soon as you see any of the symptoms on this list, which may be a sign of serious problems, take your guinea pig to the vet as soon as possible:
Refusal to eat or drink; lethargy; difficult or laboured breathing; sneezing; crusty eyes; limping; loss of balance; excessive scratching; hair loss; uncontrollable bleeding; extreme drop in body temperature; diarrhoea; blood present in urine; signs of temporary paralysis.
You should also know that penicillin-based medication is poisonous to guinea pigs.
Problems caused by poor diet
The following problems are often due to poor diet, lack of exercise and lack of general care. They’re easily avoided by giving your guinea pigs the right food and plenty of exercise and, most importantly, by carrying out regular health checks.
Dental problems
Your guinea pigs’ teeth will continue to grow all their lives and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal health problems – typical symptoms are excessive drooling and loss of appetite.
To wear down your guinea pigs’ teeth and help to keep them healthy, feed a naturally-abrasive, fibre-rich food like Burgess Excel Herbage or Forage and check the teeth regularly.
Hypovitaminosis C
This condition is more commonly known as scurvy and it stems from a lack of vitamin C. It’s something that your guinea pigs can’t produce naturally and the result can be lameness, loss of teeth, rough coat, loss of hair, pain on handling and anorexia. So you must be absolutely sure your pets’ diet compensates – check that the nugget food you’re feeding them has added vitamin C. There are extremely high levels of protected vitamin C in Burgess Excel Tasty Nuggets for Guinea Pigs. Incidentally, this is why you should never feed your guinea pigs on rabbit food – there’s nowhere near enough vitamin C in it for a guinea pig’s needs.
General problems
Abscesses – guinea pigs are very susceptible to abscesses which can be caused by knocks or fights.
Skin complaints – these are very common, particularly mange, which is caused by a mite burrowing under the skin. Look for the symptoms: little raised spots which are itchy and cause your pet to scratch, and that leads to scabs and loss of hair. Always see your vet for a correct diagnosis and treatment.
Health Checks
Every guinea pig is different, and it’s good to get to know how. Once you’re familiar with your pets’ normal habits and behaviour, it will be easier to spot when they’re ill.
You can help to maintain your pets’ good health by learning to do some simple health checks every week. It’s a good way to increase the bond between you and these quick and easy checks are best done when your guinea pig is feeling comfortable and relaxed – you might find that an Excel Nature Snack helps.
And never forget: if in doubt, always consult your vet immediately.
Ears – gently look inside and make sure they’re clean and free from mites and fleas.
Eyes – make sure the eyes are clear and shiny. Dull, swollen eyes are often a sign of illness and can lead to blindness.
Teeth – check to make sure there isn’t any excessive drooling which can be a sign of dental problems. Be careful with this health check: your pet might not be comfortable with having its mouth inspected and may bite.
Feet – gently hold and feel the feet to make sure you pet hasn’t injured itself. Check their claws too – they need to be clipped to keep them at a safe length; ask your vet to show you how to do this properly.
Fur – gently feel and look to check that there are no bald patches, no signs of mites or fleas and no injuries.
Weight – weigh your pet on a regular basis to see that it is maintaining a constant weight that is healthy for its age. Regular visits to your vet will tell you what the weight should be. Watching the scales is important – obesity is a serious illness that can lead to other health problems.
Have a look at Pets Pantry’s Guinea Pig Remedies section for products to help keep your guinea pig fit and healthy.
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Companionship
Rabbits are social animals, and it’s better to have more than one. Ideally, they should be of similar sizes, to stop bullying.
Rabbits from the same litter get on well, but should always be neutered. Un-related females generally tolerate each other given enough space, but may still fight. Un-related males will almost certainly fight and can inflict nasty injuries. In both cases, neutering is recommended by vets to improve the situation.
Never keep rabbits with guinea pigs or chinchillas. They have very different food and housing needs and may fight.
Housing Your Rabbit
Whether your rabbits live indoors or outside, a hutch is the perfect home. But there are many designs, shapes and sizes, so choosing the right one is essential.
SIZE – the hutch should be high enough for your rabbits to stand on their back legs, and with enough floor area to allow a minimum of three to four hops in any direction. You’ll need to get a bigger hutch the more rabbits you have.
LAYOUT – there should be separate eating and toilet areas. If you have more than one rabbit, there should also be somewhere for them to be alone.
LINING – line the floor with newspaper.
BEDDING – cover the lining with bedding material of hay, barley straw or dust-free wood chippings. This helps to absorb urine and keep the hutch comfortable.
TOILET – rabbits are clean animals by nature, so make a separate litter area, deep-sided and lined with newspaper and hay, which you should change regularly.
LOCATION – the hutch should always be dry, well-ventilated and kept cool – heat can be fatal to rabbits. Indoors, avoid sites next to radiators. Outside, avoid south-facing walls and direct sunlight. In the colder winter months, add extra bedding to an outdoor hutch and move it into a garage.
CLEANING – rabbits leave scent markings which extreme cleaning can remove. This may cause them stress, but hygiene is important. Spot clean soiled areas when needed, but change all bedding and clean thoroughly every two or three days – always leaving a small corner untouched so it smells familiar.
It’s also important to consider the surroundings when your rabbit is out of the hutch.
Rabbits love to chew and gnaw, so when they’re living indoors, the house needs to be rabbit-proofed. Wires are an easy target, so metal ducting may be useful to cover them up. Also, be aware of wooden and laminate floors which can easily cause your rabbits to slip, injuring the lower back.
For outdoor rabbits, it’s important to rat-proof the area where they’re living. Fear of predators – like dogs, foxes and birds of prey – can cause stress, so try to minimise it. If a neighbour has a noisy dog, for example, house your rabbit as far away as possible. Ideally cover the hutch at night so that the rabbit cannot see outside should any predators enter the garden.
You should also make sure the garden is free of plants that are poisonous to rabbits.
Exercise and Play
Rabbits like to play, so make sure they have plenty of toys. Play is very good for them because it helps to keep them physically active and healthy and helps to prevent behavioural problems like fur plucking that can arise if they get bored.
You can provide a variety of toys from pet shops or use household objects. Small boxes to stand on, large pieces of plastic pipe (ensuring your pets can’t get stuck) as activity tunnels (these can be also be bought from pet shops), toilet roll tubes stuffed with Excel Herbage and willow balls with treats stuck in them are all good.
In the garden a large, secure, covered run makes an ideal play and exercise area, and it’s simple to make an indoor version if required.
Foraging is natural behaviour for rabbits, so let them go searching for food hidden in plenty of hay – Excel Nature Snacks are perfect for them to find.
Safe Handling your Rabbit
Rabbits need time to get used to their surroundings, so don’t try to pick yours up for the first few days. Instead, talk to your pets softly and try gentle stroking so you get to know each other. After a while, your rabbits should feel confident and comfortable enough in your company to let themselves be handled.
It takes two hands to pick your rabbits up properly, one taking the majority of the weight under the bottom. Rabbits are happy to be held, but can get jumpy if they don’t feel secure, so keep them close to your body and, especially for the first few times, not too far off the floor, in case they try to jump. It’s good to have a non-slip surface to handle them on, a towel or carpet for example.
Never pick your rabbits up by the ears or the scruff of the neck – it is extremely stressful.
Grooming your Rabbit
Some breeds of rabbit, particularly the long-haired varieties, need you to groom them daily to remove loose and matted hair. It keeps your rabbits in good condition, and helps to improve the relationship between you. There are many different combs and brushes available – always ask which ones are suitable for your rabbits.
Neutering you Rabbit
Vets and rabbit experts recommend neutering for all pet rabbits. In females, it prevents unwanted pregnancy and eliminates cancer of the uterus, but it makes both sexes calmer and less aggressive.
Ideally, neutering should take place before the age of six months. Females (does) can be neutered from 14 weeks, males (bucks) as soon as the testicles have descended. Bucks can remain fertile for four weeks after the procedure, so they should be kept separate from un-neutered does during that time.
Feeding your Rabbit
What is often not understood is that rabbits need to keep their digestive systems busy with a mix of two kinds of fibre – digestible and indigestible –moving through the gut at all times.
Rabbits can’t get enough nutrition from fibre as it first passes through the gut. So they pass it through the gut again. Indigestible fibre is moved through their digestive system and excreted as separate, round, hard droppings. This acts to keep the digestive system moving and stimulate appetite.
Digestible fibre is moved up into an organ called the caecum – this is like a giant appendix. Good bacteria in the caecum ferment the fibre (making it easy to digest) which then emerges in the form of clumps of sticky droppings – called caecotrophs. Rabbits then re-eat the caecotrophs and their systems extract essential nutrition as the digestible fibre passes through for the second time.
Failing to provide adequate portions of the right kind of fibre can rapidly lead to illness or death. At Burgess Excel, we call the correct ratio of these two types of fibre ‘Beneficial Fibre’.
That’s why muesli-style foods are such a problem. Rabbits can become fussy eaters, and will eat sweet foods as an easy way to get a glucose fix. As a result, they can pick out unhealthy elements of muesli-style foods and leave the rest. This is called selective feeding and will inevitably lead to an imbalanced diet, lacking in calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D. Above all, this behaviour can lead to a lack of fibre with potentially fatal consequences. When taken with the fact that muesli-style foods are commonly low in fibre to begin with, the problem is compounded.
And finally, the unhealthy ingredients in muesli-style foods are high in sugar and starch. These are difficult for rabbits to digest and can lead to health problems and obesity. Rabbits eat caecotrophs directly from their bottoms –obese rabbits often cannot reach the caecotrophs which can lead to malnutrition and death.
The problem can be avoided by sticking to The Excel Feeding Plan and giving your rabbits Excel food. Both were developed by Burgess with one of the world’s leading small-animal vets to provide a perfect daily balance of fibre and nutrition.
Click here to view products in the Excel Feeding Plan for Rabbits
STEP 1 – Excel Herbage and Forage
These premium quality hay and grass foods should form most of your pets’ diet. They are especially good for dental health as they contain high levels of Beneficial Fibre that help to wear down teeth. The teeth of rabbits are constantly growing and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal problems.
STEP 2 – Excel Tasty Nuggets
These contain 100% natural, wholesome ingredients, are naturally high in Beneficial Fibre for digestive health and have added vitamins, minerals and prebiotics. Because they’re not a muesli-style mix, they prevent selective feeding.
STEP 3 – Excel Nature Snacks
These healthy, nutritious natural snacks are ideal for rabbits as they promote emotional health – preventing boredom and encouraging bonding and interaction between you and your pet. They can be fed daily because they’re packed with goodness, and are all made with pure, natural ingredients. Some are specially designed to be fed by hand which helps pets to get comfortable with human attention.
STEP 4
Rabbits can be fed fresh greens to give additional fresh nutrients and to provide some variety. But you need to be careful about what you feed them, and how much – please see below for more information
STEP 5
A plentiful supply of fresh, clean water must always be available.
You can feed fresh fruit and vegetables too, but keep quantities small – about a teacup a day of fresh greens is enough for adult rabbits. Their digestive systems are not able to digest large quantities of these rich foods, the result being diarrhoea.
Not all fruit, vegetables and greenery are good for rabbits – here’s a brief guide.
GOOD – apple (pip-less), asparagus, banana, basil, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots – especially carrot tops, cauliflower leaves and stalks, celery, chicory, cucumber, dill, fennel, grapes, green pepper, kale, mint, orange (peeled), oregano, parsley, red leaf lettuce, red cabbage, romaine lettuce, Savoy cabbage, spinach, tomato, turnip, watercress.
BAD – apple pips, potato and potato tops, rhubarb (leaves and stalks), tomato leaves, locust pods and beans, avacados.
Chinchilla Companionship
Chinchillas are largely nocturnal, but become active during the evening and throughout the night – perfect for when owners get back from work or school. Very young children and chinchillas, however, aren’t always a good partnership because the animals are very sensitive to rough handling and are not particularly good at sitting still to be petted.
Chinchillas like the company of other chinchillas. Choose a pair or a group, but try to make them all the same sex, and it’s best to get all your pets at the same time.
Housing your Chinchilla
When it comes to choosing your chinchillas’ cage, your motto should be the bigger – the better. Chinchillas are busy, active, inquisitive animals and they love lots of space to jump and play around in.
The best cages are made from wire mesh (which should have a mesh no larger than 15mm x 15mm) which extends across the floor too. They love to chew and would gnaw their way through a wooden floor in no time.
The wire cage bottom also allows urine and droppings to fall through into a tray where it can be absorbed by newspaper or dust-free wood chippings. This not only makes cleaning up easier, it keeps your chinchillas away from damp litter too – they’re very prone to catching colds in damp conditions.
The handy tray also stops droppings getting caught up in your pets’ thick coats.
Replace soiled litter every day and clean the entire cage with a safe disinfectant (you can buy special cleaning agents from specialist pet shops) once a week.
To give your chinchillas’ feet a rest from standing on the wire (which can lead to a chronic condition called bumblefoot), fit some solid shelves and branches to sit on – ideally these should be apple or pear as some branches have sap that can be poisonous. Make them out of soft wood – it keeps your pets entertained to have something to chew on.
Within the cage, you should create a small bedroom area where your pets can snuggle up and feel secure. You can buy a small chinchilla nest box from specialist pet shops, and these don’t need bedding. But your pet will eventually chew through it, so make sure there are no nails or staples in its construction.
Showing behaviour that’s unique amongst rodents, your chinchillas will love a bath – not a water bath, but a good sand bath to keep the coat in tip-top condition. Have a special container and fill it with approved chinchilla sand only, which stops the skin being damaged. Put the bath in the cage several times a week, but only for ten minutes at a time, in case it gets used as a toilet.
A constant temperature is ideal, so you should put the cage out of direct sunlight and away from draughts and radiators. Your chinchillas will bear cold quite well, but may be prone to over-heating. At temperatures greater than 25?C, chinchillas cool themselves down by sending blood to their large ears – so red ears can be a sign of over-heating.
Exercise and Play for your Chinchilla
Your chinchillas may think it’s play, but it’s really exercise – and both are vital for a happy, healthy life.
The cage makes a perfect playground. As we said in the housing section there should be shelves and branches, but rails and ramps make exciting new routes to explore too.
A scattering of wooden chewing blocks increases the fun, as does hiding healthy Excel Nature Snacks for your chinchillas to sniff out.
The cage is a great place for games, but a little time exploring the wider world of your room is good too. Rule 1: make the room escape-proof – your chinchillas could be out through a tiny gap quick as a shot. Rule 2: make the room chew-proof – it’s especially important to safeguard wires that your pets could easily gnaw through.
Worried about an escape bid or damage? Build a special exercise run or playpen instead – but putting them in a run outside is not recommended as if they do escape you will be highly unlikely to get them back.
Handling your Chinchilla
Chinchillas are, by nature, timid creatures, so allow a few days of settling when you first get them home. Talk softly to your pets, so your voice is easily recognised, but avoid touching.
Start to form a bond by hand-feeding Excel Nature Snacks, always being careful to make very gentle movements in the cage. Move on gradually to stroking and, finally, to picking your chinchillas up.
Pick up your pets by putting one hand firmly under the bottom and the other over the back and pulling into your chest with the head facing you – that way your chinchillas will feel secure. Their ribs are very, very fragile, so be very, very gentle.
If you handle your pets regularly, they will become more confident and relaxed.
Chinchillas very rarely bite, but they’re very sensitive to rough handling and show their distress in other ways. Keep an eye out for ‘fur slip’, when patches of fur are shed, which is a sure sign of fear or distress.
Never pick your chinchillas up by the tail – it will cause pain and distress and may lead to skin coming away, known as fur slip.
Feeding your Chinchilla
What is often not understood is that chinchillas need to keep their digestive systems busy with a mix of two kinds of fibre – digestible and indigestible –moving through the gut at all times.
Chinchillas can’t get enough nutrition from fibre as it first passes through the gut. So they pass it through the gut again. Indigestible fibre is moved through their digestive system and excreted as separate, round, hard droppings. This acts to keep the digestive system moving and stimulate appetite.
Digestible fibre is moved up into an organ called the caecum – this is like a giant appendix. Good bacteria in the caecum ferment the fibre (making it easy to digest) which then emerges in the form of clumps of sticky droppings – called caecotrophs. Chinchillas then re-eat the caecotrophs and their systems extract essential nutrition as the digestible fibre passes through for the second time.
Failing to provide adequate portions of the right kind of fibre can rapidly lead to illness or death. At Burgess Excel, we call the correct ratio of these two types of fibre ‘Beneficial Fibre’.
That’s why muesli-style foods are such a problem. Chinchillas can become fussy eaters, and will eat sweet foods as an easy way to get a glucose fix. As a result, they can pick out unhealthy elements of muesli-style foods and leave the rest. This is called selective feeding and will inevitably lead to an imbalanced diet, lacking in calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D. Above all, this behaviour can lead to a lack of fibre with potentially fatal consequences. When taken with the fact that muesli-style foods are commonly low in fibre to begin with, the problem is compounded.
And finally, the unhealthy ingredients in muesli-style foods are high in sugar and starch. These are difficult for chinchillas to digest and can lead to health problems and obesity.
These problems can be avoided by sticking to The Excel Feeding Plan and giving your chinchillas Excel food. Both were developed by Burgess with one of the world’s leading small-animal vets to provide a perfect daily balance of fibre and nutrition. Click here to view products in the Excel Feeding Plan for Chinchillas
STEP 1 – Excel Herbage and Forage
These premium quality hay and grass foods should form most of your pets’ diet. They are especially good for dental health as they contain high levels of Beneficial Fibre that help to wear down teeth. The teeth of chinchillas are constantly growing and overgrown teeth can be the cause of potentially fatal problems.
STEP 2 – Excel Tasty Nuggets
These contain 100% natural, wholesome ingredients, are naturally high in Beneficial Fibre for digestive health and have added vitamins, minerals and prebiotics. Because they’re not a muesli-style mix, they prevent selective feeding.
STEP 3 – Excel Nature Snacks
These healthy, nutritious natural snacks are ideal for chinchillas as they promote emotional health – preventing boredom and encouraging bonding and interaction between you and your pet. They can be fed daily because they’re packed with goodness, and all made with pure, natural ingredients. Some are specially designed to be fed by hand which helps pets to get comfortable with human attention.
STEP 4
Chinchillas can be fed fresh greens to give additional fresh nutrients and to provide some variety. But you need to be careful about what you feed them, and how much – please see below for more information
STEP 5
A plentiful supply of fresh, clean water must always be available.
Your chinchillas will love to eat fresh fruit and vegetables – but too much of a good thing is actually very bad for them. Around a teaspoon every day or every other day is perfect for an adult chinchilla. Some foods should be avoided altogether and you should be careful never to overfeed – because that can cause bloat, which can kill.
GOOD – apple, blueberry, carrot, celery, grape, orange, potato, pumpkin, squash, sweet potato. The snack that chinchillas love most of all however is raisins.
BAD – asparagus, peas, cabbage, corn, lettuce, broccoli, rhubarb & rhubarb leaves, spinach.
Caring for your Rat
Just because they’re small, don’t go thinking that you can give a rat any less care, commitment and love than you’d give to a bigger pet. In this guide, we show you by far the best way to give your pets the time of their little lives – which usually last around two years.
The more you get to know your rats (Latin name Rattus norvegicus), and get to know about them, the better. There’s more fun to be had, and more reward, every single day.
Rats make excellent pets, especially for older children and adults. They’re clean, friendly, inquisitive and highly intelligent. They love a bit of problem-solving – and you can even teach them tricks. They bond well with people and rarely bite.
Although rats are sleepy-heads all day long, they’re usually up in the late afternoon and evening. Bright-eyed, long-tailed and ready for action – absolutely ideal for when you get in.
Background
Wild rats can be found all over Europe, although they originated in Asia. The population spread across the world when the rats were sneaky stowaways on merchant ships. The domestic or fancy rat is descended from the Brown Rat (also known as the Norwegian Rat) and is thought to have originated from Asia moving into Europe in 1553 and then onto the US in 1775.
Domesticated rats are very clean, intelligent animals. They are very different to their wild cousins.
There are many different colour variations among rats, and three types of coat – smooth-haired, rex and hairless.
To take the best care of your rats, you’ll need all these things:
Large multi-level cage
Wood shavings
Soft bedding
Tubes and other toys
Suparat complete food
Ceramic food bowl
Water bottle
Gnaw blocks
Pet Safe disinfectant